Vegetarian Borscht

Growing up we ate three cold soups in the summertime: my mother’s wonderful gazpacho, schav, and borscht, both of which came in a jar from Manischewitz and are loved by Ashkenazi Jews. If my mother was being a bit fancy, she would blend the borscht and sour cream in a blender, reserving a few borscht matchsticks for garnish. The soup became a gorgeous deep pink and we couldn’t wait to take a spoonful.

The borscht and schav would be served on hot summer nights with a generous dollop of sour cream and slices of dark rye bread. This Vegetarian Borscht is perfect for lighter summer meals and can be eaten as a first course or a light main dish. If you choose to use a non-dairy sour cream or yogurt the dish is vegan and pareve.

You can, of course, serve this version of borscht hot as well, which I did the day I made it. I still served it with a dollop of our homemade yogurt, some dill and my breadsticks. It was a huge hit with my husband.

This borscht is made from beets and as anyone who follows my blog knows, I LOVE beets in all of its many forms. “Beetroots are a good source of nutrients, fiber, and many plant compounds. The health benefits of this vegetable include improved heart health, the ability to reduce blood pressure, and enhanced exercise capacity.” While beets come in varying colors and varieties, red beets are the best in this recipe. The resulting color of the soup is a rich, deep garnet that simply invites you to dig in.

This Vegetarian Borscht is a perfect summer soup, but there are also heartier winter versions which are only served hot and generally have a meat base. Borscht’s origins are from Ukraine, Russia and Poland where beets were plentiful and where the root vegetables used could be stored for the winter when fresh vegetables were scarce. It is generally described as a sour soup, although Jews from Poland often added a bit of sugar along with the lemon juice for a sweet and sour finish. And since that is where my mother’s family was from, I have added sugar to this version.

If you are looking for an easy, inexpensive and delicious summer soup, you cannot go wrong with this Vegetarian Borscht. The recipe began from Serious Eats, but the tweaks, short-cuts and suggestions are mine. The short-cuts will make this soup come together even more quickly. And don’t get bogged down in exact amounts. A little more cabbage, onions, beets and/or carrots will not spoil the soup.

Serve it with a dollop of sour cream, thick yogurt or unsweetened creme fraiche, dairy or non-dairy.

RECIPE

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Ingredients

2 medium to large raw beets (beetroot), scrubbed and cut into matchsticks (you can reserve a small piece to grate into the soup at the end, although I didn’t)

2 large carrots, peeled and cut into matchsticks OR use an 8 to 10 oz. bag of pre-cut matchstick carrots

1 pound white cabbage (It’s really light green, but called “white.” Go figure!), cut thinly into shreds (Sometimes you can find shredded cabbage in the produce isle. If you own a mandoline, it takes seconds to finely shred a cabbage, especially if someone else, like my husband, does it for you. It also made fast work of match-sticking the beets)

2 tablespoons olive or avocado oil

8 cups (2 quarts or liters) vegetable stock (I make my own because I don’t happen to like commercial vegetable stock and it is so easy, but feel free to use it if there is brand that you like.)

Juice of 1 to 2 lemons

1 Tablespoon granulated sugar or more to taste (Optional)

Kosher Salt to taste (How much you use will depend on the stock. If you are using a commercial, salted stock, you will use less than an unsalted stock. Remember, to start with a smaller amount, in any case. You can always add salt but it is almost impossible to reduce the amount once added to the dish.)

Coarsely ground black pepper (This is personal preference. Start with 1/4 teaspoon and add more if you like.)

Sour cream, thick plain yogurt or unsweetened creme fraiche (dairy or non-dairy alternatives)

Finely chopped dill, parsley or chives (optional, for garnish)

Directions

Sauté onions, carrots, and beets over medium heat in the olive oil with a a teaspoon of salt in a large soup pot. Stir and turn over the vegetables occasionally for even cooking.

In the meantime, bring the vegetable stock to a boil. When the vegetables have softened (10 to 12 minutes), add the shredded cabbage and the hot stock. Bring to a boil and simmer 15-25 minutes, until the vegetables are tender. Because my onions seemed to be particularly strong, I actually simmered the soup longer.

(The borscht can be served this way or you could take about half of the soup and blend it until smooth in the blender or using an immersion blender for a thicker, creamier final product. This can be done with added sour cream or yogurt or without. The color will either be a deep garnet or a beautiful pink. I blended it without the yogurt when I served it hot.)

Season to taste with salt and pepper, then squeeze in the lemon juice, aiming for a pleasing but subtle sour taste. Since I used an unsalted vegetable stock, I found that I needed a fair amount of salt. For what ended up being a 6 quart pot of soup, I added 1 Tablespoon of Diamond Kosher salt. If you are using table salt or Morton’s kosher salt you could use less. I also found that I needed to pump up the sour by adding some apple cider vinegar to the lemon juice. And to get that exact right balance of sweet to sour, I added a few teaspoons of granulated sugar. In addition to personal preference, some beets are just sweeter than others and some onions are stronger. So taste and don’t be afraid to make some adjustments.

Serve with freshly ground black pepper, a dollop of sour cream or yogurt, and chopped dill, chives or parsley, if desired.

NOTE:

Since it is highly unlikely that there were fresh lemons available in the winter in the Pale of Settlement, my guess is that sour salt or apple cider vinegar was used to produce the subtle sour taste. I use it in my Sweet and Sour Cabbage Soup.

Smoky Eggplant Dal

I recently posted a recipe for a delicious Butternut Squash Curry, pictured above. My husband absolutely loved it. And I served it along with basmati rice and this Smoky Eggplant Dal. Both recipes came from Jamie Oliver‘s fertile mind. While neither dish is a completely authentic Indian dish, they definitely pay homage to the wonderful variety of South Asian cuisine.

The trick to making this dish special is properly blistering the eggplant. This technique also makes for the best Baba Ghanoush you will ever eat. If you do not have access to a gas stovetop or grill, this can be prepared in a broiler. It will still be delicious – just a bit less so, since that smokiness will not be as present.

Smoky Eggplant Dal can be made ahead and will keep refrigerated for a week. It reheats beautifully. Served with rice and/or naan and this is a healthy protein-rich, vegan meal of its own. Photos of dal do not even begin to do justice to the taste. So if you are a fan of Indian cuisine, there will not be any need to convince you to try this. And if you are either not familiar with dal, in general, or think that you dislike eggplant, please give this a try anyway. I hope that you will be pleasantly surprised.

Blistered eggplant transforms the fruit’s (Yes, Virginia, this is technically a fruit) texture to a creamy, rich, almost spreadable wonder. In this dal, you are not aware that is it there – only that this tastes delicious. And if you don’t wish to do an entire Indian dinner, this dal also makes a wonderful side dish to any roasted meat.

While I have listed amounts, don’t get too bogged down. A little more of the eggplant or the beans and the dish will still be wonderful.

RECIPE

YIELD: 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

1 large or two smaller eggplants (also called aubergine in many places) (Look for eggplants with a good skin and not too fat. Many eggplants we get these days have a lot of seeds, so try for an eggplant that weighs about a pound to 1.5 pounds.)

1 chilli of choice – serrano, jalapeno, Fresno etc.

2 large cloves of garlic, peeled

1 medium red onion (although yellow onion works as well)

2 cardamom pods – preferably black cardamom, which additional smokiness, but you can use green if that is all you have

1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds

1 teaspoon black or brown mustard seeds

1 sprig of rosemary (I know, but it works!)

1 Tablespoon of red wine or apple cider vinegar

1 400g or 15 oz. can of black beans (DO NOT drain)

200g of lentils (Pardina, du Puy, brown, Beluga)

1 large cinnamon stick

DIRECTIONS

Prick the eggplant all over with a fork. This will prevent it from exploding. If you have a gas stovetop or a grill, place the eggplant directly over the flame as pictured above, using tongs to turn it frequently. Do this until the eggplant skin is blistered all over and the eggplant begins to collapse on itself. If you do not have a gas flame, place the eggplant on a baking sheet and put it under the broiler for 30 to 40 minutes, turning frequently. When done, move the eggplant to a cutting board.

Once the eggplant has cooled a bit, carefully peel off most, but not all of the blistered skin and set aside.

Halve the chilli lengthwise and remove the seeds. If you like things spicy, you can leave the seeds, but I do not. If you have never worked with hot chillis, a word to the wise, wear gloves and DO NOT touch your eyes afterwards! Peel and finely slice the garlic, then peel and finely chop the onion. Crush the cardamom pods in a pestle and mortar and remove the outer shells, then pound up the seeds. (If you don’t have a mortar and pestle, you can use a rolling pin, meat tenderizer or cast iron pan to whack it. I would place a towel as a cushion under a board to spare your countertop and ears.)

Place a large (10 to 12 inches) non-stick frying pan on a medium low heat with 1 Tablespoon of neutral olive, Avocado or other neutral oil. Add the cumin, cardamom and mustard seeds.

Strip the rosemary from the stem and add that to the pan as well. Allow the herbs and spices to sizzle and infuse the oil for a few minutes. Then add the chilli, garlic and onion and cook for 5 minutes or until softened, stirring regularly. Chop the peeled eggplant into 1-inch chunks and add it, along with any bits of blistered skin, to the pan as well, with 1 Tablespoon of red wine or apple cider vinegar.

Allow everything to sizzle for a couple of minutes, then pour in the black beans, with their liquid and 600 ml (A little more than 20 oz.) of water. Now here’s the slightly tricky part. Set one end of the cinnamon stick on fire and then place it in the center of the pan. Quickly cover the pan with a tight lid. This will add smokiness as well to the dal. Cook the mixture on a medium low heat for about an hour until it thickens, stirring occasionally. Add splashes of water, if necessary (I didn’t need to) to loosen the mixture and to keep it from sticking. Season with salt and pepper. Now enjoy!

Apricot Galette with Almond Mascarpone Cream

We are firmly in stone fruit season. And while I love a juicy, fragrant peach or nectarine, I have found over the last 10 years that they are very unpredictable. Sometimes they can look good on the outside, but are either mealy, tough or without flavor. But apricots and plums seem to be more consistent, with new varieties and colors every year. My Apricot Galette with Almond Mascarpone Cream makes the most of apricots. I rarely gush but this galette is the dessert of my dreams. Loaded with perfectly ripe apricots nestled into a creamy, almond mascarpone.

The apricots are ripe, sweet, tender and almost creamy. Just a hint of almond and nutmeg enhance the apricotiness of the fruit. And who doesn’t love a delicious cream in their dessert?

I believe this recipe would work with plums, although I have not tried it yet. And obviously, the number of plums used would be fewer than the number of apricots given their relative sizes. The Apricot Galette with Almond Mascarpone Cream does not need any garnish, but if you added a dollop of whipped cream, you won’t find me faulting you.

This galette is the perfect finish for a summer dinner. I prefer desserts that are not overly sweet, but creamy and fruity – my pecan pie being the exception. To an extent, how sweet your finished product will be depends on the actual fruit you use. You can add an additional tablespoon or 2 of sugar if you want to go sweeter. I won’t, but no judgment here.

RECIPE

Yield: 8 servings

INGREDIENTS

Galette dough (See below for my favorite dough)

For the filling

13 to 14 apricots, any variety, halved, pitted and sliced into 6 to 8 slices

6 ounces mascarpone, room temperature

1/3 cup of granulated sugar

rounded quarter teaspoon of freshly grated nutmeg

1 Tablespoon fresh lemon juice

healthy pinch of fine Himalayan sea salt or kosher salt

1 rounded Tablespoon of preserves (Either apricot or blood orange)

1 large egg, room temperature

1/4 cup cornstarch

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon pure almond extract

For the dough

1.5 cups, unbleached, all-purpose flour

1 Tablespoon granulated sugar

large pinch of kosher or Himalayan sea salt

1 stick (8 Tablespoons) of unsalted butter, cubed and very cold

1 teaspoon of vinegar (Distilled or apple cider)

4 to 5 Tablespoons ice cold water

For the glaze

1 egg yolk mixed with 1 Tablespoon of cream for the glaze

Demerara or other large crystal sugar

2 Tablespoons sliced almonds (Natural or blanched)

DIRECTIONS

I make my dough in a food processor. While admittedly it takes longer to wash the food processor than it does to make the dough, I just find it preferable. However, you can, of course, make the dough by hand.

Place the first 4 ingredients into the bowl of the processor. Pulse 15 times. Then add 4 Tablespoons of the ice water and the vinegar. Start processing. If the dough doesn’t appear to be quite coming together, add the last Tablespoon of water. Then run the machine just until the dough starts to come together.

Remove the dough from the processor and using waxed paper or plastic wrap, push the dough together into a ball. Then flatten into a thick disk. Refrigerate for 40 minutes if you will be using it right away. It can stay in the fridge for a day or two if well-wrapped. It can be frozen, although I never do that.

While the dough is resting in the fridge, combine all of the filling ingredients in a large bowl EXCEPT for the apricots. Mix them together until well combined. THEN add the apricot slices and using a spatula, gently mix them through the cream.

When you are ready to bake the galette, preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Line a baking sheet pan with parchment.

If the dough has only been in the fridge for 40 minutes, you should be able to roll it out with ease. If it was in the fridge longer then you will need to have it sit on the counter for 10 to 15 minutes before you can roll it out without cracking it.

Lightly flour a counter or large Silpat baking sheet. Lightly flour the area where you will be rolling out the dough. Place the disk on top of the flour and sprinkle flour over the top of the dough. Roll out the dough from the center rolling outwards, turning the dough frequently. Add flour as needed to prevent sticking. You want to end up with a 14-inch circle. It doesn’t have to be perfect. This is rustic.

Carefully roll the dough back onto the rolling pin and transfer it to the pan with the parchment. It might overlap the sides a bit, but that is okay. Now carefully pour the apricot/mascarpone mixture over the dough in the center. Begin to pull up the dough over the filling but leaving a large opening in the center. Pleat the dough as necessary. (If you don’t like raggedy edges you, you can trim them using a small knife or pastry cutter. Sometimes I do – this time I didn’t.) I happen to love a good pastry dough, but you can cut the dough back, making a larger opening in the center with a smaller dough surround. Extra dough can be used to make a simple cookie with a bit of egg wash and sugar on top.

In a smallish bowl, add the cream to one large egg yolk and stir well. Brush the outside of the dough all around with the egg wash. Then generously sprinkle (from above) the Demerara or coarse sugar and the sliced almonds, if used.

Bake for 30 to 35 minutes or until the pastry is a golden brown and the cream filling appears to be set.

Remove to a rack to cool completely before serving. Ideally this is served at room temperature, but left-overs will need to be refrigerated.

Butternut Squash Curry

My husband and I enjoy a good curry for dinner and this Butternut Squash Curry is absolutely wonderful. It’s so easy to make a delicious, satisfying and nutritious vegan meal with the right ingredients. I served this along with Basmati rice and a Smoky Eggplant Dal that I had made a few days previously. (Watch for the recipe coming soon.) Both of these dishes can be made ahead and reheated with no loss of flavor which makes them perfect to have in your fridge for those busy nights when cooking is the last thing that you want to do.

Because these dishes are spice-dependent, be sure to use only fresh spices. Whenever possible, grind your own. Whole spices last longer than pre-ground and the final product is so much better. Coffee or spice grinders are relatively inexpensive and you’d be surprised at how quickly you can create your own spice blends.

When I think of Butternut Squash, I generally think of autumn or winter. However, these days you can find many of what would otherwise be out of season fruits and vegetables. The other ingredients are all pantry staples for me. And if you enjoy South Asian and Mediterranean cuisine, you likely have many of these ingredients on hand as well.

The original recipe comes from Jamie Oliver. I enjoy his approach to food and his creativity, although his energy can be a bit exhausting at times. Nevertheless, I have taken several of his recipes, tweaked them a bit and have found them to be reliably good. Now I am not one of those food bloggers who thinks that everything is AMAZING! Nor do I think that everything has to be in order to enjoy making it and eating it. This, however, was a big hit in our house and will definitely be added to my make again revolving roster of dishes.

Butternut Squash Curry could be made with other squashes such as Red Kuri Squash or even sweet potatoes; however, depending on the squash you use, the skin may need to be removed before adding to the curry, unlike with butternut squash. This, as with most curries, should be served with rice and/or naan. You definitely want something to absorb all of that lovely sauce, as well as adding the necessary bulk to round out the meal.

The squash when roasted has a velvety texture with a natural sweetness that is the perfect foil for the spices. This curry is a winner and I hope that you will try it and let me know how it goes in the comments below.

RECIPE

Yield: About 6 servings depending on sides

INGREDIENTS

1 large butternut squash (about 1.2 kg) (Try to get squash that is relatively straight without a large bulb at the end. The bulb is hollow with seeds and you will end up with a smaller amount of squash than would be in a straighter, narrower squash.)

EVOO or Avocado oil

1 large onion, peeled and coarsely chopped

2 large cloves of garlic, peeled and lightly smashed

Fresh ginger root – about 4 cm, piece, peeled and left whole

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 rounded teaspoon of coriander seeds

1.5 teaspoons dried fenugreek leaves (This beautiful herb, also known as Kasuri methi, has a slight bitterness with maple syrup undertones. It can be used as a seed, fresh or dried and is prevalent in Indian cooking. Do not try to substitute it with anything else.)

Rounded teaspoon of your favorite curry powder

1 teaspoon of Rajasthani chilli powder (Mirchi) (This gives a fragrant, medium heat. I love it and use it a lot, but if you don’t wish to buy it, you could add in ground red pepper to your desired level of heat.)

300g of ripe cherry or grape tomatoes left whole

2 rings of canned pineapple in juice or its equivalent in chunks

400ml of coconut milk

400g of cooked or canned chickpeas with some of the cooking liquid

DIRECTIONS

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Wash the skin of the squash and halve the squash lengthwise. Make sure to use a sharp knife and cut through the bulbous hollow part first to make it easier. Scoop out the seeds and that gooky stuff that sticks to the seeds. Feel free to wash, dry and roast the seeds or otherwise discard them. Cut the squash into approximately 2 cm. chunks, skin and all.

Place in a roasting pan in a single layer without crowding and drizzle with about 1.5 Tablespoons of EVOO or Avocado oil and sprinkle generously with kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper. Roast for 40 minutes to an hour or until softened and a lovely browned golden color.

While the squash is roasting, dry fry the chopped onion, garlic, ginger, coriander and curry powder in a non-stick frying pan on a medium heat, stirring until everything is lightly charred and the spices have “bloomed.”

Now add the whole tomatoes and the pineapple and cook for 10 to 12 minutes or until the tomatoes have softened and some have burst open and the pineapple has taken on some color. I like to gently scrape the pan with a wooden spatula to get up all of those lovely brown bits.

Remove the pan from the heat and put everything into a blender. Don’t wash the pan since you will be using it in a minute. Add the coconut milk and blitz until smooth. If the ingredients are still quite hot, place a towel over the top of the blender to prevent any possible volcanic activity. I didn’t have a problem, but I guess it can happen.

Once you have a smooth sauce, pour it back into the pan and add in the chickpeas and the liquid from the can. If you have cooked your own, add in about a cup of the liquid. Stir in the 1 teaspoon of slat and the fenugreek leaves. Bring the pan to a simmer and cook for about 10 minutes or until the sauce has thickened a bit.

Add in the roasted squash and gently stir it through the sauce. Cook on simmer for about 30 minutes. At this point, it is ready to serve or you can place it covered in the fridge for several days to reheat when needed.