Chicken Chasseur (Hunter Stew)

img_2233I enjoy broiled, baked or roasted chicken as much as the next person, but it does get boooooring! While staring at my fridge and pantry hoping for inspiration, I realized that I had all of the makings for chicken chasseur. I’m sure that there are many versions of this dish, some that are more complicated and also fattier. I have nothing against some good old fat – especially butter  or lardons- but this version is based on one by Jacques Pepin from his cookbook Jacques Pepin’s Table. His version calls for chicken thighs on the bone, which are flavorful and less prone to drying out than the breast meat; however, I had boneless chicken breasts in my fridge so that is what I used. I made a couple of other small adjustments to suit personal taste. This version is delicious and simple enough to make on a weeknight and is ready in under an hour.

Chicken Chasseur

Yields: 4 servings

Ingredients

1 Tablespoon EVOO

About 2 pounds of boneless, skinless chicken breasts (If they are large, cut them into two pieces each)

1 leek, trimmed, cleaned and thinly sliced (White and light green part only)

1 large shallots, peeled, halved and thinly sliced

1.5 Tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 cup dry white wine (I happened to have an open dry rose so that was what I used)

1 can (15 ounces) diced tomatoes in their own juice (I like fire-roasted)

6 cloves of garlic, peeled, crushed and finely chopped (about 1 Tablespoon)

12 ounces of small to medium mushrooms, cleaned and trimmed (Cut in half  or even quarters if they are larger)

1 teaspoon dried thyme or 2 teaspoons fresh

3/4 teaspoon dried rosemary or 1.5 teaspoon fresh

3/4 teaspoon dried tarragon or 1.5 teaspoons fresh

1 teaspoon Kosher or Sea Salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper

Directions

  1. Heat the EVOO in a large non-stick or heavy-bottomed skillet. Add the chicken breasts in one layer and cook them for 5 minutes on each side over medium high heat. Transfer the breasts to a large platter and cover lightly with foil to keep warm.
  2. To the drippings in the pan, add the leek and onion and saute for 1 minute. Add the flour and mix it in well for about 30 seconds. Then pour in the wine and tomatoes and bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat.
  3. Add back the chicken breasts. Stir in the garlic, mushrooms and all of the herbs and seasonings EXCEPT for the tarragon. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. Cover the pan and reduce the heat to low and cook for about 15 minutes more. If you are using chicken on the bone or dark meat, you may have to cook a little longer.
  4. When ready to serve, sprinkle in the tarragon. This is delicious as is but I like to serve it over a flat ribboned pasta like a pappardelle. It only needs a green salad to complete the meal – well and wine, of course!

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Eggplant and Tomato Bake

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I have never met an eggplant that I didn’t like and frankly cannot understand when someone tells me they don’t eat eggplants. They can be prepared so many ways! And they are beautiful. So when I saw this recipe for Tian d’Aubergines in last week’s Chicago Tribune I had to try it. Tomatoes are at their most gorgeous now and I was able to pick up some luscious ripe ones at my local market. The only thing I changed from the original recipe was to add garlic because who makes eggplant without garlic?? I also layered my herbs and salt and pepper because – well, layering flavors is just better. This dish can be eaten hot, room temperature or cold. I am serving it at room temperature tonight with some lamb chops and a lovely rosé from Provence. I imagine that leftovers will be eaten with just some crusty bread to soak up all of the delicious liquid and a bright green salad. I did buy some Greek cheese the other day so I might have some sliced on the side. This is one of those wonderfully simple and versatile dishes like a good ratatouille. I was skeptical when I read that it baked for two hours, but the final result is deliciously unctuous so don’t skimp on the baking time.

Eggplant and Tomato Bake from Monique Hanson

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Yield: 6 to 8 servings

2 medium yellow onions, peeled and thinly sliced

Lots of fresh thyme leaves

3 medium eggplants

4 large ripe tomatoes

5 large cloves of garlic, thinly sliced

4 Tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 Tablespoon Dijon mustard

8 Tablespoons EVOO plus more for drizzling

Kosher or sea salt to taste and fresh ground black pepper or Aleppo pepper if you have it

Directions

  1. Heat oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly drizzle oil on the bottom of a heavy rectangular baking dish (mine was 9.5 by 13) large enough to hold everything very snugly (there will be some shrinkage when it bakes). Place the baking dish on a pan since there might be a little spillage when it bakes.
  2. Layer the onions and garlic over the bottom of the pan and sprinkle with lots of fresh thyme leaves, a sprinkling of salt and some pepper.
  3. Cut off both ends of the eggplants and then slice almost all of the way through but not entirely at 1/2 inch intervals. Slice your tomatoes and nestle one slice between the cuts in the eggplant.
  4. Place the stuffed eggplants in the baking pan over the onion and garlic. Don’t worry if you have to squish things a little to force them in. They will bake down. Sprinkle with more thyme, salt and pepper.
  5. In a small bowl, make the vinaigrette. Mix well and drizzle it over the eggplant. Drizzle a little more EVOO and sprinkle a little more salt.
  6. Bake uncovered for 1 hour. Then cover and bake for another hour until the eggplant is cooked through, the house smells amazing and the liquid is bubbling up in the baking dish. Serve at any temperature that you choose.

Braised Curried Chicken with Star Anise

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Week-nights it can be difficult to motivate me to cook for just the two of us – especially when I never know exactly when my husband will be home from work. This comforting recipe from The Thousand Recipe Chinese Cookbook by Gloria Bley Miller is a wonderful choice. The recipe doesn’t require a million ingredients, is not expensive and can be made ahead and reheated. This cookbook dates from before ethnic cooking was so widely popular and is a wonderful Chinese cookbook primer. It’s recipes are very flexible and surely everyone can find things they would enjoy. I have adapted this recipe, but the inspiration is definitely from GB Miller. If you are feeling particularly stressed for time, buy pre-chopped garlic and ginger root. My chicken will be served with some fresh, bright green sugar snap peas that I have quickly stir-fried with a little salt, garlic and sugar and a splash of sesame oil before dishing out.

Braised Curried Chicken with Star Anise

Yield: 4-6 servings

Ingredients

6 chicken drumsticks, skin removed

4 chicken thighs, skin removed and cut in half

2 medium onions, chopped

1 Tablespoon finely chopped garlic

1 Tablespoon, finely grated or chopped fresh ginger root

4 Tablespoons vegetable oil, divided (I used Canola oil)

1 Tablespoon all-purpose flour

2 Tablespoons curry powder (If you want it spicy, use “hot” curry powder)

1 Tablespoon granulated sugar

2 Tablespoons soy sauce

2 cups chicken stock (I always try to use unsalted stock)

1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt

4 cloves of star anise

1 pound potatoes, peeled and cut into large dice (I used red baby bliss but Yukon Gold would also be good)

Directions

  1. Heat 2 Tablespoons of the oil in a Dutch oven and stir-fry the onions until they soften. Then add the garlic and stiry-fry for a bout 3 more minutes.
  2. Add the additional 2 Tablespoons of oil, ginger, flour and curry powder and stir through to blend well over a low heat.
  3. Turn the heat up to medium-high and add the chicken. Stir through, turning the chicken to coat.
  4. Add the sugar, soy sauce, salt and star anise. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer, cover and cook for 30 minutes. Then add the potatoes and cook for about 30 more minutes or until the potatoes are tender and the chicken is cooked through
  5. If making ahead, about 35 minutes before serving, gently bring the dish to a simmer and warm through.

Egyptian Ground Fish Balls – Bellahat

fish balls on platter with garnish

I have never loved gefilte fish – even when it is homemade – but I wanted a fish first course and this recipe caught my eye. Egyptian Jews make it for holidays, including Shabbat meals. I made it for the first time last year and it was huge hit, so I made it again this year. The key is finding a fish monger with beautiful fresh fish, who will grind it up for you and fresh herbs and spices. You can grind the fish yourself but having someone else do it makes this dish pretty easy to make. Any leftovers make terrific lunches for the rest of the week. Frances has already placed her “order” for her flight home, which unfortunately is tomorrow. These are best made a day ahead so the Bellahat can absorb the flavors of the wonderfully savory sauce. Because I know my audience, I make these flavorful, but not too hot. I have recently discovered the joys and wonder of Aleppo pepper, which is a sweet, savory hot pepper that never overwhelms. I made lavish use of it this Passover, and will make sure that this is now a staple in my spice pantry.

Egyptian Ground Fish Balls with Tomato and Cumin (Bellahat) from Jayne Cohen’s Jewish Holiday Cooking.

Yield: About 8 servings, but can easily be doubled

Ingredients

For the Fish Balls

1.5 pounds (net) of a non-oily white-fleshed fish like flounder, cod, sea bass, snapper or grouper (I used Red Snapper) with the skin and bones removed and finely ground

1/2 cup matza meal

2 large eggs

1/4 cup finely chopped onion

1 Tablespoon minced garlic

2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 teaspoon Kosher salt

Aleppo pepper (or cayenne if you want it really hot) to taste

2 Tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

2 Tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro

For the Sauce

1 Tablespoon finely chopped garlic

3 Tablespoons EVOO

One 28 ounce can of San Marzano or other high quality whole tomatoes, with their juice and broken up

NOTE: (You can make this with fresh plum tomatoes and sweet red and yellow peppers, but I try to put my efforts where it really makes a significant difference. And if the plum tomatoes are not in season from a farmer’s market, don’t even bother.)

Kosher salt and more Aleppo Pepper

Juice of one large lemon

Soft-leaf lettuce for serving

Chopped fresh cilantro or parsley or lemon wedges for garnish

Directions

  1. I make my sauce first.In a large heavy saute pan or deep skillet, warm the garlic in 2 Tablespoons of EVOO until fragrant but not brown.
  2. Add the tomatoes and their juice, salt and pepper to taste. Cook over moderately high heat for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes are broken up and the sauce has thickened.
  3. Stir in the remaining 1 Tablespoon of EVOO and the lemon juice. fish balls adding lemon to tomato baseTurn off the heat while you make the fish balls.
  4. In a food processor or by hand, combine the finely ground fish with all of the other ingredients and either pulse until well-combined or mix thoroughly with your hands.fish balls after mixing
  5. With hands moistened in cold water, shape the mixture into 16 slightly flattened ovoids, using about a 1/4 cup for each.
  6. Turn the heat on under the sauce and add the fish balls directly into the sauce. fish balls simmering in paella panWhen all of the fish balls are nestled in the sauce, bring the sauce to a simmer on a low heat. Cover the pan and cook the fish balls for 20-25 minutes until the fish balls are firm and cooked through, turning them once. Turn off the heat and adjust any seasonings of the sauce. Allow the fish balls to cool in the sauce and refigerate over night or up to 48 hours.
  7. Serve on a platter or individual plates with the lettuce leaves, the fish balls and sauce and sprinkled with chopped parsley or cilantro.

NOTE: I like a slightly chunky sauce, but if you prefer a smooth one, remove the fish balls from the sauce before serving and using an immersion blender, puree until smooth.

 

Moroccan Style Sweet Potato Stew

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Just because something is vegan doesn’t mean it has to be boring. While this Moroccan-inspired stew is not an authentic dish, it is flavorful and satisfying enough even for meat-eaters. I came up with this recipe about 25 years ago when I was looking for something to make for Sukkot and at the time, my son did not eat meat. The ingredients probably developed based on what I had around at the time. Feel free to play with the ingredients, including the spices. Just remember to keep the essential balance of flavors and textures. When I originally made this, I did not use any hot pepper or spicy curry powder since most young children are not into “heat.” This time I made it with a little but not overwhelming heat since I never like things so hot that I can’t taste any of the other flavors.

I usually served this over steamed millet, rice or couscous, but this time I am experimenting. I have been watching all of these cooking shows that use cauliflower to replace a starch. Now I personally love starches, but I was intrigued. So when I went to the grocery store and saw this gorgeous cauliflower on sale, I bought one. Honestly, I wasn’t sure what I was going to do with it, but today was the day that I needed to do something. It was taking up way too much space in my fridge and I wanted to use it before it developed those yucky black spots. I roasted the florets at 425 degrees F. for 20 minutes after drizzling them with a little EVOO and then I pulsed them in my food processor along with some Kosher salt, one teaspoon of minced garlic and a sprinkling of Aleppo Red Pepper (more on the pepper later!). I pulsed until the cauliflower resembled rice – sort of. This will be the base under my stew. No one will be fooled into thinking it is rice, but it added a nice layer of texture. I don’t think I would especially race to make it again, but it is worth giving it a try.

Don’t be put off by the relatively long list of ingredients. The actual assemblage is fast and easy. For serving, I might serve a nice hard cider or a crisp white wine. I would round out the meal with some eggplant dip and hummus and pita especially if I am serving it to guests or Matthew and Frances are here.

Moroccan Style Sweet Potato Stew   

Yield: 4-6 servings

Ingredients

1 large onion, peeled and chopped

4 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped

1 Tablespoon EVOO

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon each: curry powder (I used a hot Madras powder this time), ground cumin, Kosher salt

Rounded 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of Aleppo Pepper or other red pepper (optional)

1 large sweet potato, peeled, cut into 1/4 inch rounds and then quartered

1 small butternut squash (or a second sweet potato), peeled, seeded and cut like sweet potato

1 large sweet red, yellow or orange pepper, cut into large dice

2 Japanese eggplants, cut into large cubes (You can use a regular eggplant, but you will have to worry about seeds)

15 ounce can, drained chickpeas (save the aquafaba if you want to make meringue)

1 large Granny Smith apple, peeled and cut into large dice

1 16 ounce can of diced tomatoes with liquid

1/2 cup of raisins

About 2 cups of vegetable broth

6 ounces of apple or pineapple juice

Lightly toasted pumpkin seeds and pumpkin seed oil for garnish (optional)

Directions

  1. In a 4 to 5 quart Dutch Oven, saute the onions and garlic in the EVOO until softened. Stir in all of the spices and add enough of the juice to moisten everything and to prevent scorching. Cook, stirring occasionally for about 3 minutes.
  2. Add all of the other ingredients, including the remaining juice and stir through. Bring to a boil. Then cover and reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook for about 35 minutes or until the sweet potatoes are tender. This can be made earlier in the day and gently rewarmed or even made a day ahead, refrigerated and rewarmed.
  3. When ready to serve, place a generous portion of the stew over your starch (or cauliflower) of choice and garnish with toasted pumpkin seeds and a drizzle of pumpkin oil. IMG_1326

NOTE: I’m a bit like a magpie when it comes to spices and kitchen gadgets. I get seduced by shiny new objects and as long as they are within a certain price range, I will often indulge myself. I was searching for some particular spices online to make my Yemenite Chicken Soup and received a pop-up that said “people who bought this, also bought Aleppo Pepper.” Well how could I resist, especially when it was described as:

  • Aleppo pepper has perfectly balanced heat and amazing flavor, sweet and rich and almost smoky.This Turkish crushed chili has an ancho-like flavor with a little more heat and tartness.

While it is not essential to this dish, it is really wonderful stuff and I have since been using it everywhere – in pasta, eggs, soup and this stew.

Crock-Pot Beef Stew

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There are few dinners that are homier or easier to make than a good beef stew. Whenever possible I buy chuck roast and I cut my own stew meat. It really doesn’t take that long and chuck roast is just the best quality meat for beef stew, instead of the odds and ends of all kinds of beef that are sold as “stew” meat in the grocery. Stew only takes about 30 minutes to assemble and then you put it in a low slow oven or slow cooker and leave it alone. I picked up the knack of using instant tapioca to make a wonderful thick gravy from an Amish cookbook. It requires no messing with making a roux and adding it slowly to avoid lumps. The tapioca goes in the mix at the beginning and when the stew is ready, the gravy is silky, coats a spoon and is delicious. No muss; no fuss. I have always made this in my Dutch oven, but I decided today to use a crock-pot. I usually forget that I have one since it is stored out of sight, but I know how useful they can be. Hopefully, I won’t mess it up!

I make this for Sunday night dinner and then have delicious left-overs for the week. This can also be frozen. The only change you will see when re-heating the stew is that the vibrant green of the peas will fade. No taste is lost. Be sure to serve a good bread or roll to wipe up all of that flavorful gravy!

Crock-Pot Beef Stew

Yield: 6-8 servings

Ingredients

4 pounds of chuck roast cut into large chunks (about 3-inch pieces)

1 pound carrots, peeled and sliced OR a 1 pound bag of baby carrots

1 pound of cippolini onions peeled OR if you are feeling lazy a bag of frozen pearl onions

10 ounces of frozen peas

About 12 red baby bliss or small Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and left whole unless larger (then cut them in half)

8 ounces mushrooms, sliced thickly or left whole if small (try to use a Cremini or Baby Bella) optional

1 cup red wine like a Cabernet or Zinfandel, but even a Pinot Noir or Cabernet Franc would work. Use either what you have left-over or what you will be drinking with the stew.

1 15 ounce can of diced tomatoes with their juice (I like fire roasted)

1-2 cups of beef broth or water

1/2 bunch of flat leaf parsley, chopped

Kosher salt and fresh cracked black pepper to taste

2 teaspoons dried thyme, crumbled

2-3 garlic cloves, minced

2 bay leaves

5 Tablespoons Minute Tapioca

Directions

  1. I read somewhere that we should be preheating our crock-pots so I preheated mine on high while I prepared my stew ingredients.
  2. I layered in all of my ingredients, except for the frozen peas and parsley and then stirred everything through to distribute them well. I covered the slow-cooker and put it on high for 1 hour.
  3. After 1 hour, I turned the slow-cooker down to “low” but did not touch anything inside the pot. I set the timer for 4 more hours.
  4. After four hours, I stirred in the peas and parsley, adjusted the seasonings and left the slow-cooker on “warm” until I was ready to serve it.

Beef stew

Ghormeh Sabzi (Chicken and Kidney Bean Stew)

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I love all kinds of Middle Eastern food and I’m always looking for new and interesting recipes. There is something about all of the wonderful fresh herbs and spices that I find irresistable. I came across this one when I was looking at some other recipe and like a magpie, my eye went to the shiny new object – in this case cooking with fenugreek and Persian limes. Whenever I am trying a new recipe, I try to find several versions of it and take what I like best from each of them. I didn’t actually do that here since this was such an unfamiliar recipe for me. However, I did note that many of the versions called for using lamb or beef stew meat, which I might try another time. Chicken is, of course, considerably less expensive than either lamb or beef and is also good if you are staying away from red meat. Meat will also have a longer cooking time. I would advise using the chicken thighs, however, as they are more flavorful than the chicken breast and also less prone to drying out. For just me and my husband, I am serving this with my version of a Jerusalem salad. If I am serving this to guests, I would serve several Middle Eastern salads and some warm pita or other flat bread.

Ghormeh Sabzi (Chicken and Kidney Bean Stew) from Tasting Table by Jake Cohen

Yield: 4 servings

INGREDIENTS                              Persian stew1

3 tablespoons canola oil

1½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-inch cubes

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 tablespoon ground turmeric

1 large yellow onion, finely chopped

6 ounces (12 medium) scallions, minced

2 cups minced parsley, plus more for garnish

1½ cups minced cilantro, plus more for garnish

4 cups chicken stock

1 tablespoon dried fenugreek leaves

5 dried black Persian limes

Two 15-ounce cans kidney beans, drained

Pita, for serving

DIRECTIONS

1. In a large pot or Dutch oven, heat the canola oil over medium-high heat. Season the chicken with salt and pepper, and add to the pot. Cook, turning as needed, until browned on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken to a plate and set aside.

2. Add the turmeric and onion to the pot, and cook, stirring often, until softened, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the scallions, parsley and cilantro, and cook until wilted and dark green, 5 minutes. Return the chicken to the pot and add the chicken stock, fenugreek leaves and dried limes.

3. Bring to a simmer  and cook uncovered until the chicken is tender and the liquid has reduced, 25 minutes. Halfway through cooking, pierce 3 of the limes with a paring knife. Persian stew2

4. Add the kidney beans and cook until warmed through, another 5 minutes. Divide the stew between bowls and garnish with more parsley and cilantro. Serve with pita on the side. This is actually a very light dish and when making it again, I would serve it over rice.Persian stew4

Meatloaf My Way

meatloafAlmost every European and Mediterranean cuisine makes forcemeat in some form or other, whether it is a terrine, pate, kibbeh or meatloaf. The type of meat or poultry and the add-ins and seasonings are all that changes. Meatloaf is a good way to stretch your meat and while I love it hot, it is also delicious as a leftover in sandwiches or even crumbled on top of pizza. And unlike with baking, you can feel free to play with the seasonings here to personalize to your and your family’s tastes. As a little girl, when my mother made meatloaf, she was something of a purist. She used no egg binder and no minced vegetables – just meat, seasoning and bacon over the top covered by chili sauce. However, she did place whole hard-boiled eggs in the middle of the loaf as a surprise for me and my siblings. While I loved her meatloaf growing up, I actually prefer my version nowadays. I do still occasionally add the hard-boiled egg as a surprise and I always use chili sauce like she did instead of ketchup.

Meatloaf

Yield: 6-8 servings

Ingredients

3 pounds of ground beef or a mixture of ground veal and beef or lamb and beef. It should be 2/3 ground beef to 1/3 ground lamb or veal.

2 Tablespoons EVOO

1/2 cup finely chopped onion

1/2 cup finely chopped celery

1/2 cup finely chopped red, yellow or orange pepper

1/2 cup minced carrot

3 cloves of minced garlic

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

1/2 cup of chili sauce

1.5 teaspoons Kosher salt

2 teaspoons ground allspice

several good grinds of cracked black pepper

1 bunch,  finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1.5 cups of fresh bread crumbs (about 2-3 slices – I use a multigrain bread, but any will do)

3-4 slices of bacon (If you don’t wish to use any pork product, then ask your butcher for some beef fat (suet)) to lay over the top to keep it from drying out.

Directions

  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly oil a 10 x 6 inch deep bread pan (This can also be made free-form in an oval, but I always use a bread pan.)
  2. Either by hand or in a food processor, prepare your vegetables and then saute them in the EVOO with about 1/4 teaspoon of the salt for about 3 minutes or until just softened. meatloaf1Turn off the heat and add the bread crumbs and parsely to the mixture. Allow to mostly cool.
  3. In a large bowl (I always use either glass or stainless steel for raw meat.) add your meat, 1 teaspoon of the salt, the allspice, cracked black pepper and the beaten eggs. Mix through. (I use my hands for this. If you are squeamish, buy some nitrile or surgical gloves and put those on first and toss them when you are finished.) Now add the vegetable mixture and again mix through, breaking up any clumps.
  4. Pack the mixture into the oiled pan meatloaf2and using strips of bacon or suet, cover the top. meatloaf3Place the pan in a larger pan with at least 3-inch sides and add enough hot water to partially come up the sides of the pan with the meat loaf. Place this in the oven and bake for 1.5 hours.
  5. At the end of the baking, remove the pan from the pan with the water and carefully pour off any excess fat. Place the pan on a cooling rack and cover with a piece of parchment or foil. Place a weight (a brick or large can) on top for 30 minutes. This will consolidate the meat and make it easier to cut when it is hot. You can skip this step but if you have the time, it is nice to do.
  6. Remove the weight and parchment/foil and carefully turn the meat onto a cutting board. (Before you do this there might be some additional fat to pour off. It will depend on the meat you used.) Slice it and serve with additional chili sauce on the side. I like to serve meat loaf with “smashed” potatoes and broccoli with lots of garlic. Leftovers can be wrapped well and refrigerated for up to a week.

Oxtail Stew

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I’ve been making oxtail stew for at least 25 years. In those days, oxtails (which do not come from an ox) were not popular in most American diets, but nowadays with the snout to tail movement in full swing, eating them is much more acceptable. Oxtails are not super meaty, but they are so rich in protein and flavor that you don’t need to eat a lot to feel a deep satisfaction. While I wouldn’t ordinarily eat meaty stews in the summertime, when the temperature drops and the wind chill rises, I start dreaming about my first batch of oxtail stew for the season. The recipe below is not the oxtail stew that I have been accustomed to making. I happened to be looking online today to see if oxtails could be a Kosher cut of meat and came across this recipe. It looked so simple and good that I decided to try it and share it with you. Perhaps later on in the winter, I will share my traditional recipe.

When buying oxtails, you will have graduated size pieces, with some larger and others very small. They all add flavor and protein richness to the dish, but you will need enough of the larger pieces for serving. Just be sure to have plenty of good bread on hand to soak up all that rich, umami-filled sauce. Serve a crisp salad and you are done! Well maybe a lovely baked apple or apple tart to finish things off. This dish is at its best when made one day ahead.

Oxtail Stew adapted from Dianne Rossen Worthington

Yield: 6-8 servings

Ingredients

2 Tablespoons EVOO

4 pounds of oxtails (there is a LOT of bone so this is not too much)

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper to taste

1 large onion, peeled and sliced

4 medium carrots, peeled and sliced in 1/4 inch thick rounds

5 large garlic cloves, peeled and minced

3 cups good quality beef broth

1 cup red wine (a Zin or Cabernet or Cabernet Franc)

1(14.5 ounce) can diced tomatoes with its juice (I like fire roasted but any good brand is fine)

2 bay leaves, dried or fresh

1 generous teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled

1 cup pitted, chopped Kalamata olives

2 Tablespoons red wine vinegar

2-4 Tablespoons finely chopped fresh, flat-leaf parsley

Directions

  1. In a heavy Dutch Oven 7-9 quarts) heat the EVoo over medium high heat. Season the oxtail pieces generously with Kosher salt and cracked black pepper. Brown the meat in batches, making sure to not crowd the pan. You are not sauteeing the meat, so in order to get a good brown, do NOT move the meat around. The meat should also be dry when it goes in the pan. Turn your kitchen fan on or your smoke detectors off! The burned brown bits forming at the bottom of the pan are not really burned and they will add lots of flavor to the stew. As you brown each batch, remove the pieces of oxtail to a platter on the side. When finished, cover lightly with foil to keep warm.
  2. Add the sliced onions and carrots and saute them until they begin to soften and the onions become translucent. Add a little salt and pepper as you do each layer. Now add the garlic and saute for another minute.
  3. Add the tomatoes, bay leaf, thyme, oxtails, wine and broth. If y ou are using a 7 quart Dutch oven as I did, it will fit but be very full. Bring to a full boil, then cover the pot, turn the heat down to simmer for 1.5 hours. After that, uncover the pot, adjust your heat if necessary and cook for 1.5 hours more, uncovered. If any scum comes to the top, you can skim it offor just leave it for when you are skimming the fat later.
  4. When the oxtails are tender, add the Kalamata olives and the vinegar and cook for another minute uncovered. Turn off the heat and cover tightly. In order to skim the fat the most easily, you can refrigerate this overnight or if you are like me and the temperature permits, I just put it on my terrace overnight!
  5. When ready to serve, skim the fat which rose to the top and solidified. Then gently rehat until simmering. You can do this in a 325 degree F oven for about 30-40 minutes. Serve with crusty bread or over noodles or rice and garnish with parsley.

Mushroom Beef Barley Soup

mushroom beef barley soup

 

We have been having a strange El Nino winter so far with temperatures well above normal for December. Not too many people are complaining about it still being in the 50s and even 60s in Chicago, but I do find it a bit unsettling. I always wait for the cooler weather to wear my beautiful heavy kilted skirts and to bake my bread and make my rich soups and stews. The last couple of days saw a turn in the weather so I don’t need to pretend that it is a typical December and I’m making my mushroom beef barley soup. You can practically stand a spoon up in this soup – it is just that thick and rich. One bowl with some warm crusty bread and a fresh green salad will surely cure whatever winter blues or sniffles you are facing. It’s the kind of soup that I love to eat after snuggling on the couch with a good book and an even better single malt Scotch. It freezes well so make a big batch. Or do what I do and give some to a friend or sibling.

I tell you below how to substitute out the beef and beef stock if you wish to do that either for budgetary, health or moral reasons. It will not be thsame, but it will still be delicious.

Mushroom Beef Barley Soup

Yield:

Ingredients

3 Tablespoons Canola or Grapeseed Oil

2-3 pounds of chuck roast, cut into large cubes (You could also use beef shank or beef stew meat or even short ribs) If beef isn’t in your budget or your diet, you can leave it out, but don’t skimp on the mushrooms! The dried mushrooms add some of that beef mouthfeel and lots of flavor.

3 large carrots, peeled and sliced medium thick

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3 stalks of celery, sliced but not too thinly, including leaves if you have them

1 large onion or 2 leeks, white and light green parts only, chopped coarsely

8 – 12 ounces of sliced mushrooms (baby bello or crimini) In case you hadn’t guessed, I REALLY like mushrooms. Be sure to NOT wash any dirt off of the mushrooms. Just wipe with a damp paper towel. Washing mushrooms makes them spongy.

1.5 cups dried mushrooms (Buy what you can afford; I am using porcini which I buy from nuts.com in bulk. I would not use a shitake or oyster mushroom here but just about any other dried mushroom will do.)

porcini mushrooms

1 cup of barley

6-8 cups of good beef stock (homemade if you have it or a good commercial brand like Kitchen Basics) If you are not cooking with beef becasue you are a vegetarian or vegan, then substitute vegetable stock. It won’t be as good, in my opinion, but it will still be a good soup.

Kosher salt and fresh cracked black pepper to taste

Directions

  1. In a microwaveable bowl, soak your dried mushrooms in water to just cover. Place in themicrowave and heat on high for 1.5 minutes. Cover and let sit for at least 30 minutes. Alternatively you could soak the mushrooms in boiling water.
  2. You will need to use a heavy 7-9 quart pot for this – preferably cast iron covered with enamel like a Staub, Le Creuset or Lodge). Otherwise, you will be scraping burnt barley off of the bottom!
  3. Heat the oil in the pot on medium high heat and lightly brown your meat in batches. Remove with a slotted spoon and hold to the side.
  4. If necessary add a bit more oil, but you shouldn’t really need to. Add the onions or leeks and cook for a couple of minutes until translucent. Then add the carrots and celery and cook for 3 more minutes until they become shiny and barely begin to soften.
  5. Add all other ingredients, including the dried mushroom with their liquid but do not add the barley or fresh mushrooms yet. If you think there is any grit in the mushroom liquid, pour the liquid through a strainer. Start with 6 cups of the beef broth plus the soaking liquid from the dried mushrooms. It should be enough for now.
  6. Bring to a simmer on medium heat, stirring occasionally. This can take a bit but don’t rush it. Once it comes to a simmer, skim any of that greyish scum from the beef proteins that  comes to the surface. (I use a slotted spoon dipped in a measuring cup filled about 1/3 of the way with warm water.)
  7. Once you have removed as much of the scum as you can, cook for 30 minutes, covered and then add the barley and stir through. Now add your salt and cracked black pepper. Depending on whether your stock is already salted and on personal taste, you should proceed cautiously. You can always add salt at the end. This is a fairly good size pot of soup, so if your stock is unsalted, adding 1 Tablespoon of salt is probably not too much. Bring the pot back to a simmer, cover the pot or Dutch oven and continue to cook for 30 more minutes. Check the pot occasionally and if you must, add some additional boiling water or stock to make sure that there is enough liquid in the pot so you can still call this soup!
  8. After 30 minutes (1 hour total), add the fresh mushrooms and continue cooking for 30 more minutes (Total cooking time is 1.5 hours.) Adjust your seasonings.
  9. This soup will keep in the fridge for up to a week, but when you reheat it you may need to add some liquid since the barley will continue to absorb liquid as it sits. You can also control how thick you like your soup. My family likes it thick enough to stand up a spoon but others like a thinner soup. It’s up to you.