Farse Magru – Stuffed Rolled Beef

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This dish has always been a special favorite of Matthew’s ever since he was a child. So when I asked him what he wanted to make for his birthday, it was not a great surprise that farse magru is what he asked for.  We started out with caviar and all the fixings with some Veuve Cliquot. Then it was dinner – farse magru with pappardelle pasta and garlicky green beans and a delicious Reserve Cabernet. Dessert was leftover Chess Pie.

This dish is fun to make and I never make it exactly the same way twice! It’s one that you can be creative with and it always turns out as a spectacular presentation. It is possible to roll and tie the meat yourself, but it is MUCH easier if you have another person working with you. I generally serve this with polenta or pasta, a veg and a side salad. This will not be an exact recipe but a method and a guide. It’s really not that difficult once you get the hang of tying the roll up. Trust me – you can do it.

Farse Magru – Stuffed Rolled Beef

Yield: 6 portions

Ingredients – use these a guide, not as written in stone

1 piece of flank stank, about 2 pounds, rounded thin into a rectangle (If you can, ask your butcher to do this or use the flat side of a meat tenderizer with the meat between 2 pieces of parchment or heavy duty plastic wrap.)

2-3 teaspoons finely chopped or crushed garlic

About 1/4 cup of finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

EVOO

Kosher salt and cracked fresh pepper

About 1 cup of sun-dried tomatoes

16 ounces of frozen whole leaf spinach that has been defrosted and squeezed dry

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

4-5 hard boiled eggs, peeled

About 1/4 pound of Genoa salami, thinly sliced

About 6-8 ounces of shredded cheese (I used a combination of Fontina and Asiago. If you wish to leave the cheese out you can)

2 large boxes or cans (about 28 ounces) of San Marzano tomatoes, broken up (If you are feeling lazy, you can use two jars of a quality tomato-based pasta sauce of choice instead of the tomatoes and following ingredients.)

1/2 cup dry red wine ( I used the Cabernet we would be drinking)

2 bay leaves, dried or fresh

1 Tablespoon dried oregano

1 Tablespoon dried thyme

kitchen twine

Directions

  1. On a large cutting board or platter, covered with parchment paper, lay out your rectangle of beef. Smear the garlic, parsley, salt and pepper over the surface. Drizzle with EVOO. Don’t be afraid to use your hands – adult finger-painting!
  2. Now add your sun-dried tomatoes   IMG_0701[1]then half of the cheese and then half of the spinach, sprinkled with 1/2 of the nutmeg  IMG_0703[1]
  3. Now the Genoa Salami (Are you getting the idea?)  IMG_0704[1]Now the hard boiled eggs go right down the middle  IMG_0705[1]Then the rest of the spinach and nutmeg, followed by the remaining cheese  IMG_0706[1]Now unfortunately, I was too busy working to roll and tie this up with my husband to take photos of the next part, so I ‘ll try to walk you through.
  4. Preheat your oven to 325 degrees F.
  5. Cut about 6 lengths of kitchen twine that are long enough to generously go around the meat and allow you to tie it tightly. You can cut off any excess and since twine is cheap, don’t skimp! Carefully work the pieces of twine under the slab of meat at intervals. More string is better.
  6. Now the tricky part. Carefully, but confidently take the meat along the longer side and roll it towards the opposite side, gently squishing it down and tucking things in that want to escape. Don’t get too concerned. Anything that falls out can go into the sauce so nothing is wasted. While one person is holding it together as tightly as possible, the other person helping you should be tying the string around the meat roll that you have created as tightly as possible without ripping the meat. The ends do not need to be sealed, but you don’t want everything to fall out when you pick up the roll. Check for any gaps and use more string of you need to close the roll up as much as possible.
  7. Heat about 3 Tablespoons of EVOO in a heavy pan that is deep enough to hold the meat and the sauce. I have an oval Dutch Oven that is perfect. Carefully lift the meat roll and fit it into the pan to brown it on all sides. If you need to slightly bend the roll to fit it in the pan, that’s fine. Turn it carefully to brown.
  8. Once the meat is browned, add your sauce or sauce ingredients, covering the meat with some of the sauce. Cover the pan and bring the ingredients to a heavy simmer. Place the covered pan in the oven and cook for 1.5 hours.
  9. Turn off the heat and allow the meat to rest for about 30 minutes or longer. When you are ready to serve the meat, carefully remove the roll from the pan and place it seam side down on a cutting board. Snip the string. With a good, sharp knife, slice your rounds of meat. Do not slice them too thin or they will fall apart. IMG_0716[1]
  10. Place some of the hot sauce (reheat the sauce if necessary) on a platter and place the rounds of meat on top).  IMG_0710[1]Place the remaining sauce in a gravy boat or its equivalent and serve on the side at the table. IMG_0715[1]

 

 

Postcard from LA – Korean Christmas Dinner

We did two Christmas meals this year, one at lunch with my grandmother and another at dinner with my dad’s family.  While lunch was more traditionally “American” (with delicious lobster tail and shrimp scampi), we had a very “Korean” dinner — which was great for me since I never feel like I can get enough of the food!  My uncle also brought over some amazing pies, a cherry pie and a buttermilk cream pie — and I’m convinced my stomach expanded that night to eat all the delicious food.

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Postcard from LA – Korean Haute Cuisine

Growing up in LA, I mostly ate Korean food and had never heard of butternut squash, for example, until college.  While my Korean speaking is still at the level of a third grader, I think my Korean eating and appreciation of Korean food is much, much more elevated.  Given this, I was extremely excited to try out a new(ish) restaurant in LA downtown that is known for a specific type of Korean food, both in the method of serving, and in the nature of what is served, called “han jung sik.”image7.JPG

When I first tried this years ago in Korea, I was struck by how close the serving style seemed to the concept I was more familiar with – “prix fixe.”  It was not so much a surprise to learn therefore that apparently the concept of prix fixe derived from folks who had traveled to Korea and Japan and first came across this method of serving, known in Korea as “han jung sik” and in Japan as “kaseki.”

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Much like prix fixe meals today, han junk sik was considered “haute cuisine” and how the aristocrats or “yang ban” ate.  The notable difference between what the yang ban ate and the average person apparently was whether or not they would eat noodles.

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My grandmother who came to lunch with us chuckled as she remembered how her father would never eat noodles because of this tradition, and how our great grandmother  wasn’t allowed to either, despite the fact that one of her favorite dishes were cold noodles in a beef broth called “naeng myun.”  I like to think that my sister and I are making up for her naeng myun deficit since it’s probably our favorite dish and I think we’ve eaten enough of it to keep the noodle companies in business.

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Strangely enough, despite this, the restaurant did offer naeng myun as a small side as a last dish – but we’re convinced that was just to keep the modern clientele happy.  (Either that or all those years my great grandmother could have had naeng myun!)

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So what exactly did they serve us?  Well the few pictures above show a sampling, which included some Korean short ribs, special Kimchi that is stuffed with pine nuts and small fish, and a broth with vegetables served on an extremely fancy dragon dish.  But the pictures don’t even do the food justice, so check it out if you’re in LA!

Sunshine Kale Salad

 

kale salad

I know that kale has somewhat gone out of fashion, but honestly, I never pay much attention to fads. I mean they are fun to read about, but if I enjoy something, I will enjoy it even when I am told by foodies that it is so yesterday.

This kale salad is one that I came up with and it is perfect for those dreary winter days. And it is wonderful for company because it actually needs ot be made ahead. I make mine in the morning so that the kale has time to slightly soften and absorb all of the flavors. It may require a couple of things you don’t normally keep on hand, but they are really worth buying and keeping around. If you can’t easily find the vinegar or oil in your grocery store, they can be purchased online. Check out sources in our section “Our Favorite Things.”

Kale Sunshine Salad

Yield: 4-6 portions

Ingredients

1 bunch curly green kale (do not use Tuscan kale for this recipe) with the leaves torn from the stem

1 pint red grape or cherry tomatoes cut in half lengthwise

1/2 of a small onion, thinly sliced

1/4 cup lightly toasted pine nuts (you can substitute walnuts, but pine nuts are really worth getting)

3/4 to 1 cup dried, sweetened cranberries

3-4 Clementines, peeled, pith removed and broken into sections (you can use navel oranges, but then you should cut the segments in half)

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 teaspoon Kosher salt

Cracked Black Pepper to taste

3 Tablespoons of a fruity vinegar (I like mission fig, but you could also use a Champagne or nice white wine vinegar)

6 Tablespoons Walnut Oil

Directions

In a large bowl, place all of the ingredients. Toss, cover and allow to sit, unrefrigerated for several hours. Toss again before serving.

 

Mushroom Beef Barley Soup

mushroom beef barley soup

 

We have been having a strange El Nino winter so far with temperatures well above normal for December. Not too many people are complaining about it still being in the 50s and even 60s in Chicago, but I do find it a bit unsettling. I always wait for the cooler weather to wear my beautiful heavy kilted skirts and to bake my bread and make my rich soups and stews. The last couple of days saw a turn in the weather so I don’t need to pretend that it is a typical December and I’m making my mushroom beef barley soup. You can practically stand a spoon up in this soup – it is just that thick and rich. One bowl with some warm crusty bread and a fresh green salad will surely cure whatever winter blues or sniffles you are facing. It’s the kind of soup that I love to eat after snuggling on the couch with a good book and an even better single malt Scotch. It freezes well so make a big batch. Or do what I do and give some to a friend or sibling.

I tell you below how to substitute out the beef and beef stock if you wish to do that either for budgetary, health or moral reasons. It will not be thsame, but it will still be delicious.

Mushroom Beef Barley Soup

Yield:

Ingredients

3 Tablespoons Canola or Grapeseed Oil

2-3 pounds of chuck roast, cut into large cubes (You could also use beef shank or beef stew meat or even short ribs) If beef isn’t in your budget or your diet, you can leave it out, but don’t skimp on the mushrooms! The dried mushrooms add some of that beef mouthfeel and lots of flavor.

3 large carrots, peeled and sliced medium thick

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3 stalks of celery, sliced but not too thinly, including leaves if you have them

1 large onion or 2 leeks, white and light green parts only, chopped coarsely

8 – 12 ounces of sliced mushrooms (baby bello or crimini) In case you hadn’t guessed, I REALLY like mushrooms. Be sure to NOT wash any dirt off of the mushrooms. Just wipe with a damp paper towel. Washing mushrooms makes them spongy.

1.5 cups dried mushrooms (Buy what you can afford; I am using porcini which I buy from nuts.com in bulk. I would not use a shitake or oyster mushroom here but just about any other dried mushroom will do.)

porcini mushrooms

1 cup of barley

6-8 cups of good beef stock (homemade if you have it or a good commercial brand like Kitchen Basics) If you are not cooking with beef becasue you are a vegetarian or vegan, then substitute vegetable stock. It won’t be as good, in my opinion, but it will still be a good soup.

Kosher salt and fresh cracked black pepper to taste

Directions

  1. In a microwaveable bowl, soak your dried mushrooms in water to just cover. Place in themicrowave and heat on high for 1.5 minutes. Cover and let sit for at least 30 minutes. Alternatively you could soak the mushrooms in boiling water.
  2. You will need to use a heavy 7-9 quart pot for this – preferably cast iron covered with enamel like a Staub, Le Creuset or Lodge). Otherwise, you will be scraping burnt barley off of the bottom!
  3. Heat the oil in the pot on medium high heat and lightly brown your meat in batches. Remove with a slotted spoon and hold to the side.
  4. If necessary add a bit more oil, but you shouldn’t really need to. Add the onions or leeks and cook for a couple of minutes until translucent. Then add the carrots and celery and cook for 3 more minutes until they become shiny and barely begin to soften.
  5. Add all other ingredients, including the dried mushroom with their liquid but do not add the barley or fresh mushrooms yet. If you think there is any grit in the mushroom liquid, pour the liquid through a strainer. Start with 6 cups of the beef broth plus the soaking liquid from the dried mushrooms. It should be enough for now.
  6. Bring to a simmer on medium heat, stirring occasionally. This can take a bit but don’t rush it. Once it comes to a simmer, skim any of that greyish scum from the beef proteins that  comes to the surface. (I use a slotted spoon dipped in a measuring cup filled about 1/3 of the way with warm water.)
  7. Once you have removed as much of the scum as you can, cook for 30 minutes, covered and then add the barley and stir through. Now add your salt and cracked black pepper. Depending on whether your stock is already salted and on personal taste, you should proceed cautiously. You can always add salt at the end. This is a fairly good size pot of soup, so if your stock is unsalted, adding 1 Tablespoon of salt is probably not too much. Bring the pot back to a simmer, cover the pot or Dutch oven and continue to cook for 30 more minutes. Check the pot occasionally and if you must, add some additional boiling water or stock to make sure that there is enough liquid in the pot so you can still call this soup!
  8. After 30 minutes (1 hour total), add the fresh mushrooms and continue cooking for 30 more minutes (Total cooking time is 1.5 hours.) Adjust your seasonings.
  9. This soup will keep in the fridge for up to a week, but when you reheat it you may need to add some liquid since the barley will continue to absorb liquid as it sits. You can also control how thick you like your soup. My family likes it thick enough to stand up a spoon but others like a thinner soup. It’s up to you.

 

 

Farmer Bread

farm bread

Okay – I’ll say it. I LOVE BREAD!! and the crustier the better. Since I had just cooked up a batch of Mushroom Barley Soup which I will post tonight after we eat it, I wanted some great bread to go along with it. This wonderfully fragrant, crusty bread comes form the Jacques Pepin’s Table cookbook and it is fun to make and even better to eat.

Farmer Bread

Yield: One large round free-form loaf

Ingredients

4 cups, unbleached all-pupose flour, plus 1 teaspoon for sprinklin on the loaves

1/2 cup rye flour

1/2 cup wheat bran

1 teaspoon granulated yeast (active dry)

2.5 teaspoons Kosher salt

2.33 cups cool tap water plus 1 Tablespoon to throw on the oven floor

2 Tablespoons cornmeal

Directions

  1. Place the flours, salt, yeast and 2.33 cups of water in the bowl of a standing mixer. Mix at low speed for 3 to 4 minutes to create a smmoth, but slightly sticky dough. If you have a large food processor you could do it in there and it should come together in about a minute.
  2. Transfer the dough to a deep glass or ceramic bowl or a plastic measuring bucket (If you make a lot of bread, these are great!). Cover with a lid or plastic wrap and allow to rise at room temperature overnight (12-14 hours).
  3. After the dough has risen, bring the sides of the dough into the center of the bowl, folding it in on itself. It is easier to use a dough spatula than your hands becasue it will be sticky. If you use your hands, lightly flour them first. Press down on the dough to get all of the excess air out and form it into a ball as best you can. Line a baking sheet with parchment or a Silpat and sprinkle it with the cornmeal. Place the dough seam side down in the center of the pan. Invert the bowl or bucket over the dough. It should be bigger than your dough circumferance so it won’t stick.
  4. Allow the dough to rise at room temperature for another 1.5 hours.
  5. About 20 minutes before the end of the rising time, preheat your oven to 425 degrees F.
  6. Sprinkle the risen dough with the teaspoon of flour and using a serrated knife, cut some decorative slits across the top. Place the loaf in the hot oven and throw a Tablespoon of tap water into the bottom of the oven – NOT OVER THE DOUGH. Immediately close the oven door and bake for 15 minutes. Then lower the heat to 400 degrees F and continue baking for 1 hour more.
  7. Remove the bread from the baking sheet and allow to cool on a wire rack for at least 3 hours before cutting. Wrapped in plastic, the bread will keep for up to 4-5 days and it can be frozen.

Pot de Crème

Some years ago, Matt and I participated in “Tasting on the Wine Road” where over 100 wineries in the Healdsburg region (in Northern Sonoma, California) offered tastes of their wines paired with something to munch on.  Offerings ranged from very rich cheese fondues paired with bold reds, and salmon teriyaki paired with crisp white wines.  We collected our free cook books that documented all the wines we had the option to taste and all the foods that had been paired, and after a solid day of eating and tasting, concluded that this was one of favorite places to vacation.

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A little later while leafing through the book, we came across this recipe for Pot de Crème from a winery that we were members at, but had not stopped at for the Wine Road day.  But given how much we liked Truett Hurst Winery (both for their wines and the beautifully rustic property where we’ve whiled away a day in the sun), we knew the recipe must be delicious, and so it was!  It’s turned into my favorite company dessert since it can be made ahead, and looks beautiful in presentation with a raspberry or two on top and a little bit of whipped cream or “schlag” as we love to call it.  The flavors for this are incredibly dense and delicious.

Ingredients

1 cup Zinfandel (they recommend their Red Rooster Zinfandel)
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper
pinch of nutmeg
1/8 tsp clove
1/4 tsp cinnamon
1 1/2 cups heavy whipping cream
1 tbsp brown sugar
8 oz semisweet or dark chocolate chips
4 egg yolks
2 tsp smoked Maldon sea salt (optional)

raspberries and whipped cream (optional for garnish)

Directions

Place the Zinfandel and the spices in a small saucepan and reduce by half.  Whisk in the cream, bring to a simmer, cover and turn off the heat.

In a small double boiler, melt the chocolate with the brown sugar, stirring to combine.  Whisk in the warm cream mixture.

Beat the egg yolks in a small bowl, and add in 4 tbsp of the chocolate mixture, 1 tbsp at a time, whisking throughout each addition.  Whisk the tempered yolks into the chocolate on the double boiler and continue to cook, whisking, for 5 more minutes over low heat.

Strain the mixture through a fine mesh strainer into a small pitcher.

Pour into 1/2 cup ramekins (should be enough for 8).  Allow to cool for 10 minutes.  Sprinkle 1/2 tsp of salt (optional) and allow to cool for 4-6 hours until set (better if overnight).

Serve with whipped cream and raspberries (optional).

From Tasting Along the Wine Road Cookbook, volume 15, recipe from Chef Peter Brown, Jimtown Store

Grilled Lamb Chops

In my more recent forays into cooking “real meat” as I call it, meaning I’ve started cooking outside of the chicken comfort zone, I’ve had fun discovering fancy looking dishes that are really quite easy and don’t take too much time.  In wondering out loud what to make for dinner, a friend suggested this recipe that she has made for company for years.

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While the recipe calls for a grill, we both used a cast iron skillet and had amazing results anyways.  Some people have said that cast iron skillets are extremely difficult to clean, but this recipe resulted with very minimal clean-up.  The marinade adds wonderful depth of flavor, and you can use the leftover herbs sprinkled into dishes for the rest of the week, including omelettes and chicken for salads.

Ingredients

2 large garlic cloves, crushed
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
Pinch cayenne pepper
Coarse sea salt
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
6 lamb chops, about 3/4-inch thick

Directions

In a food processor fitted with a metal blade add the garlic, rosemary, thyme, cayenne, and salt. Pulse until combined. Pour in olive oil and pulse into a paste. Rub the paste on both sides of the lamb chops and let them marinate for at least 1 hour in the refrigerator. Remove from refrigerator and allow the chops to come to room temperature; it will take about 20 minutes.

Heat a cast iron skillet over high heat until almost smoking, add the chops and sear for about 2 minutes. Flip the chops over and cook for another 2 minutes for medium-rare and 3 minutes for medium.

Adapted from Food Network Grilled Lamb Chops.

Lisa’s Fudge

I’m not even going to pretend that there are any health-related redeeming qualities to this out of this world fudge – and you shouldn’t either. But whereas most fudge simply makes my teeth ache with its overwhelming, cloying sweetness my fudge is rich and decadent with a wonderful pure dark chocolate taste. It took me several years of trial an error to get just the right balance. Unlike plain dark chocolate, which I love, this is undoubtedly fudge, with that special fudge mouth-feel. When my son was younger he didn’t like nuts so I left them out, but my preference is to include them. I leave it to you to decide if you want to include them or not.

Because my fudge is so rich, I either need to think ahead and make it a couple of weeks before I wish to serve it so it will “cure” a bit and harden up which makes cutting it easier OR it will need to be refrigerated. The only problem with the latter is you will lose the sheen of the chocolate. The taste will not be affected. If you can store it in a dark, cool place and manage not to eat it, I definitely recommend that method. I did actually take a “test” piece last night and it was dreamy, but still a bit soft for best serving. Either way, it is a slightly more sophisticated take on fudge.

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Lisa’s Fudge

Yield: It will entirely depend on how you cut your pieces, but it is quite rich, so I would keep them small. I wouldn’t think getting 36 pieces is out of the realm of possibility, but there is no judgment here, so if you only get 12 I promise not to tell.

Ingredients

1.5 cups of granulated white sugar

2 Tablespoons Devonshire cream or Mascarpone

6 oz. bittersweet chocolate (about 64% cacao)

6 oz. semi-sweet chocolate

1 jar Marshmallow crème/fluff (about 7 ounces – a little more or less won’t matter)

4 oz. unsalted butter

1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

2 teaspoons strong coffee

1 cup walnuts, broken into good sized pieces

Directions

  1. Generously grease an 8-inch square pan with either butter or cooking spray
  2. In a heavy-bottomed medium pot, bring the first 6 ingredients to a boil on medium heat, stirring occasionally
  3. As soon as it begins to boil, stir constantly and boil for 5 minutes.
  4. After 5 minutes of boiling, turn off the heat and stir through the last 4 ingredients. When everything is well combined, pour the mixture into the prepared pan and allow to cool completely on a wire rack. Once it has completely cooled, cover the pan and put in a cool dark place. Try to forget about it until you are ready to cut your pieces. Then cut and place your pieces in paper or foil candy cups and store in a tin.

Mine isn’t totally ready to cut yet so my photo is only of the fudge in the pan. When I have it cut, I’ll add a photo later. But I know that some of you might want to have this for the holidays, so I want to get this recipe out there now.

Easy Mushroom and Leek Soup

Whenever winter rolls around, I start dreaming about all the soups that I can eat (and make) and inevitably end up using my immersion blender all the time to make tasty and hearty liquid warmth.

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Making soup is extra fun with this pumpkin cast iron pot that is so beautiful that it makes cooking the soup feel extra seasonally appropriate.  It just so happens that Sur La Table also seems to think so, and provided a delicious mushroom and leek soup recipe to go with this pot.

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I modified it by using less stock (to make it much more dense) and left out all the extra butter and whipping cream.  To be honest, I don’t think we’re missing much for not including it and it ends up being healthier this way, too!

Ingredients:

  • 1 ounce dried wild mushrooms
  • 4 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
  • 2 cups roughly chopped celery
  • 2 medium leeks, white parts only
  • 1 medium yellow onion, roughly chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
  • 4 cups sliced stemmed fresh shitake mushrooms
  • 4 cups sliced Crimini mushrooms
  • 2 cups sliced button mushrooms
  • ½ cup dry white wine
  • ¼ cup all-purpose flour
  • 4 cups chicken broth, low-sodium
  • 2 tablespoons truffle oil
  • diced chives (optional, for garnish)
  • ¼ cup straw mushrooms, for garnish (optional)

Directions

  1. Place the dried mushrooms into a small bowl and cover with hot tap water, set aside and allow to soak for 20 minutes. Cut leeks into ¼” rounds. Transfer to a large bowl of cold water and wash well, lift from water into a colander and drain.
  2. In a large pot, add 4 tablespoons of olive oil and place on the stove over a medium-high heat to melt. Add the celery, leeks and onion and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add all the mushrooms and cook until just starting to soften, about 4 minutes. Add wine, bring to a boil and cook until reduced to a glaze, about 5 minutes.
  3. In a small bowl, use a silicone spatula to combine the flour and butter until a smooth paste forms. Add the flour paste mixture to the pot and stir until the mixture melts and coats the vegetables. Gradually mix in the stock and bring to the boil, stirring frequently.
  4. Remove the soaking mushrooms from their liquid and roughly chop. Add the mushrooms and their liquid, being careful not to add any sediment to the soup. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the mushrooms are tender, stirring often, about 10 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
  5. Using an immersion blender, puree the mixture in the pot (alternatively, use a blender and work in batches.) Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
  6. Drizzle with truffle oil, garnish with straw mushrooms and sprinkle with chives. Serve immediately.

 

Adapted from Sur La Table Easy Mushroom and Leek Soup.